Laird Hamilton
Laird on most massive wave ever surfed, Teahupoo, Tahiti 2000
Laird on the red dirt road to Peahi, his home break in Maui
Laird with wife, pro volleyball player Gabrielle Reece, & daughter Reece
Laird and Gabby horsing around
Laird in his shop
Laird is resonating to me for several reasons.
1. He looks like my brother. They are both outdoorsmen; at ease with tools and nature; in their 40's; in lifelong good shape.
2. I feel like him. The fascination he has with waves, I have with people's emergent transformation while creating art. Transfixing, massive, swift, deadly waves.
3. He is a full-grown man.
4. The thing he loves doesn't pay. He has figured out how to make it pay. Just go far enough, smart enough, safe enough, uncompromisingly enough, with a committed team.
You don't surf the big waves alone. For the big waves, you need a team.5. He married someone equally striking and unusual and had a baby. This is a bigger wave than the ocean.
-- Laird Hamilton
6. When I look at him, I see the athlete I am becoming.
3 comments:
Cool! Laird seems to express that cool, big, smooth energy of the unbroken waves themselves. No wonder you resonate with him, Rachel. It is a match for your own energy, which if I may say so is graceful, tumbling, returning, renewing energy of a true dancer.
Thank you, Dan. I checked out your blog today. What a find.
Laird is definately the man living the life...I like the smug satisfied, content, tough confident grin he always has on his face...he oozes a lot of energy.
I admire him and want to surf big waves like that tooo! lol
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